Calculator › Knives › Boning knife
What size steel for a boning knife?
A boning knife is narrow, and its height at the heel is what sets the bar. The preset is a 6 in blade, 1 in tall at the heel, with a 3/32 in (0.094 in) spine and a 5 in full tang. Add 1/8 in for clean-up and you need 1 1/8 in, which rounds up to 1 1/4 in. With the spine, that makes it 1 1/4 × 3/32 in flat bar. The matching KraftyDesign blank (the "Draw this blank" link) is narrow, with a long curve up to a point near the spine for working around bone. At 3/32 in, this is a stiff boning knife. America's Test Kitchen (ATK) tested knives sold as flexible and preferred a moderate amount of flex, with spines about 1.25 mm (about 0.05 in) thick. It found blades with spines around 2 mm more rigid, and 3/32 in is about 2.4 mm. Thickness decides how far a blade flexes, not hardness. If you want more flex, grind it thinner. The calculator starts on 1084, and AEB-L and MagnaCut give the same 1 1/4 × 3/32 in bar. 14C28N is sold in metric thicknesses, so the calculator flags 3/32 in as uncommon for it. Check what your supplier stocks.
The calculator starts on stock removal for this one. Stock removal takes the whole 11 in profile plus clean-up: about 11 1/4 in of bar per blade. That is about 6 oz of bar for a blade that finishes around 4 oz. A 12 in bar gives one blade and a 48 in bar gives four. The 24 and 36 in bars give two and three, all at the same cost per blade. Forging the bevels and the point stretches the blade, so about 8 1/2 in of the same bar (about 5 oz) is enough. The blade finishes near 3 oz. An 18 in bar gives two and a 36 in bar gives four, both at the lowest cost per blade. A 48 in bar gives five. If you start thicker and forge down, set "Forged thickness" to "One size up". That starts you at 1 1/4 × 1/8 in, and it only applies in forged mode. The calculator won't forge AEB-L, CPM-154, 14C28N, MagnaCut or A2. Pick any of them and it works out the bar as stock removal, even with Forged selected.
Your knife
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
Stock removal: the bar is cut to blade + tang + clean-up, so the tang section and forged thickness below only change the finished-weight estimate. Switch to Forged and they change the stock length too.
Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing: a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss
Stock removal: fill factors only change the finished-weight estimate here. They set the stock length when the method is Forged. Grinding loss has no effect at all in stock removal, because the bar is cut straight to the profile and nothing is drawn out.
The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet. These two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.
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What this assumed
Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.
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Draw this blank in KraftyDesign, free: the outline at this blade length, height and tang length, as a true-size SVG you can nest on sheet stock or print as a template
What a boning knife is for
A boning knife is for taking meat off the bone. ATK calls it a butcher's tool with a thin, narrow blade made to work its way between joints. In its testing, cooks boned chicken breasts and trimmed silver skin and fat from a beef tenderloin. They also took the bone out of a cooked pork shoulder. Friedr. Dick, a German maker of butcher's knives, adds skinning meat and poultry and cutting through tendons. Wikipedia gives the usual length as 5 to 6 1/2 in. Most of the knives ATK tested had about 6 in of usable blade. ATK says that length lets a boning knife carve out both small bones and bigger ones, like the bone in a pork shoulder. Its top pick, half an inch shorter, was a little short for the big shoulder bone. Boning knives get used on game too. One BladeForums poster made two 5 in boning knives and used them on a deer. Afterward, the poster found 5 in too short a lot of the time and thought 6 in would be ideal.
How stiff it should be depends on the meat, and people disagree about it. ATK's testers liked a moderate amount of flex. Thicker, more rigid blades couldn't hug the breastbone of a chicken or the bone in a pork shoulder quite as closely. In a BladeForums thread on making a boning knife, one reply wants a thicker spine to stand up to twisting in joints. A poster who says they worked in a butcher shop for many years disagrees. That poster says butchers never use a boning knife for twisting and that it needs to be thin and flexible. The blade is narrow for tight work. A poster in another thread who bones turkeys says it has to "turn very short corners as you follow the bone". The blade can be straight or curved like a scimitar. ATK slightly preferred a fairly straight blade, because the point was easier to direct. Friedr. Dick says the curved version is more in demand now because it slides along the bone more easily. The preset's blank is the curved kind. Japan has its own boning knives. Korin, a Japanese knife shop in New York, describes the honesuki as a poultry boning knife that can be used in place of a Western one.
These stories come without sources, so read them as lore rather than history. Friedr. Dick says boning was already in demand in all ancient cultures, done with sharpened horn or a specially shaped stone. It says the knife was first used only to take out bones, and that skinning and removing tendons came later. It gives no source for any of this. Several knife sellers and blogs say the hankotsu, another Japanese boning knife, is traditionally used on hanging carcasses. Two of them add that it is held in a reverse grip, and one says edge down. None of them cites a source either. Korin describes the hankotsu as a strong, sturdy knife for cutting meat away from the bone, not for cutting through bones.
Stock for a boning knife
One BladeForums poster made two 5 in boning knives from 0.070 in 1084 and found them a little too flexible. The poster suggests starting around 0.090 in and tapering the spine to about 0.060 in, but not so thin at the tip that it breaks off in the meat or on a bone. That puts 3/32 in bar about right as a starting thickness, if you taper the spine toward the tip.
| Small, 5 in blade | 1 × 3/32 in |
|---|---|
| Standard, 6 in blade | 1 1/4 × 3/32 in |
| Large, 7 in blade | 1 1/4 × 1/8 in |
Widths assume blade height + 1/8 in rounded up to stock; thickness is the finished spine rounded up. Change the inputs above for your own pattern.
Steels that suit it
Questions
How much steel do I need for a boning knife?
About 11 1/4 in of 1 1/4 × 3/32 in bar per blade for a 6 in full-tang boning knife by stock removal, clean-up included. That is about 6 oz of bar for a blade that finishes around 4 oz. A 12 in bar gives one blade and a 48 in bar gives four. The 24 and 36 in bars give two and three, all at the same cost per blade. Forged from the same bar it takes about 8 1/2 in and 5 oz, and the blade finishes around 3 oz. An 18 in bar gives two and a 36 in bar gives four, both at the lowest cost per blade. A 48 in bar gives five. The calculator starts from a typical price per pound for each steel, and you can type in what your supplier charges.
Boning knife vs fillet knife: what's the difference?
Mostly stiffness, thickness and the meat it works on. Butchers Equipment Warehouse, a UK butchery supplier, calls the fillet knife a sub-type of boning knife made for fish. It says fillet knives are even thinner than most boning knives, and usually flexible. It also says a sturdy boning knife can handle fish, but a small fillet knife won't be nearly as effective on lamb or pork. Wikipedia matches stiff boning knives to beef and pork and very flexible ones to poultry and fish. The flex comes from thickness. Larrin Thomas of Knife Steel Nerds explains that hardness and heat treatment don't change how stiff a steel is. So the difference starts with the bar. BladeStock's fillet knife preset has a 7 in blade, 7/8 in tall with a 1/16 in spine. It comes from 1 × 1/16 in bar. This boning knife is shorter and thicker, from 1 1/4 × 3/32 in bar. On BladeForums, a knifemaker selling two AEB-L knives called the fillet knife very flexible. By the same account, the 3/32 in boning/fillet knife had no flex at all.
Free: the one-page stock size chart
Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for the common flat-bar sizes, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.