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1095 for knives

1095 is the higher-carbon sibling of 1084. It can get a point or two harder and holds an edge a little longer, but it is shallow hardening and has a very short window to get below the nose of the curve, so it needs a fast quench — Parks 50, or brine for anything over 1/8 in — to reach full hardness. Canola will leave it soft.

Heat treat at a glance

Good forStock-removal knives where you have a fast quenchant; kitchen and hunting knives; hamons.
ForgingUp to ~2100 °F; stop at 1500 °F. Cracks if worked cold.
Normalize1650 / 1500 / 1350 °F (NJSB); Cashen uses a single 1575 °F
Austenitize1450–1475 °F, 5–15 min — no higher
QuenchFast — Parks 50; brine or water for sections over 1/8 in. Canola will not fully harden it
Temper400 °F twice → 60–61 HRC
Working hardness59–63 HRC

Typical shop values. Confirm against your supplier's datasheet.

Buying it

Widely sold as annealed flat bar and as precision-ground stock in 1/8–1/4 in; often the cheapest 'knife steel' at general suppliers.

  • Big cross-sections (over 1/4 in) will not through-harden — that is a feature for a hamon and a bug for a chopper.
  • Retained decarb is thicker than 1084; grind it off before you judge hardness.

Suppliers: New Jersey Steel Baron Alpha Knife Supply Jantz

Work out the bar for your knife in 1095

Your knife

in
in
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$/lb
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
in
Charged once per blank. Changes how many blades a bar yields, not the stock per blade.
in
The stub at each end you can't use.
in
Not counted until "Held at" is set.
Off by default: forging a knife, you hold the tang you just drew. Count it if you leave a stub, or forge off a long bar.
in
in

Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing — a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.

Forging to shape, then grinding the spine to size? Go one size up.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss

The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately now (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet — these two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.

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Extra steel a forged blank loses to grinding and clean-up beyond forge scale — bevels, straightening, plunge, tang. This one doesn't show up on a kitchen scale with the finished knife: it only changes how much bar the calculator tells you to buy, not the finished weight. Calibrate it by weighing your own raw blank against the finished knife. Defaults to 25%, from one bladesmith's own weighed knife (256 g raw to ~182 g finished) — expect this number to move as more makers share theirs.

Buy this bar

Recommended stock
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Stock per blade
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Steel weight per blade
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Finished blade weight
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Steel cost per blade
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Bar used
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Minimum bar length
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Bar lengthBladesBar costPer bladeLeft over
What this assumed
What should I charge for this knife? →

Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.

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Knives to make from 1095

Questions

1084 or 1095 for a beginner?

1084. 1095 only beats it if you have a fast quench oil and a kiln; in a forge with canola, 1084 will come out harder and more consistent. Austenitize 1095 at 1450–1475 °F, not higher.

Free: the one-page stock size chart

Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for every standard flat bar, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.

One email with the PDF. Occasional notes on KraftyQuote after that; unsubscribe any time.