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W2 for knives

W2 is the hamon steel: shallow hardening, so a clay-backed blade hardens at the edge and stays soft at the spine with a dramatic, controllable line between them. It has vanadium for grain refinement and gets very hard at the edge. Quenched without clay it behaves like a fine-grained 1095.

Heat treat at a glance

Good forHamon blades — tantos, kitchen knives, hunters, seaxes — and anything where a differentially hardened spine is wanted.
Forging1800–1900 °F; do not forge below 1500 °F
Normalize1650 / 1500 / 1350 °F (NJSB) or a single 1600 °F (Cashen)
Austenitize1450–1475 °F, 5–15 min
QuenchBrine or fast oil (Parks 50); water or brine for anything over 1/8 in; interrupted quench for hamon work
Temper400 °F twice → 60–61 HRC at the edge (as-quenched 65–67)
Working hardness60–63 (edge) HRC

Typical shop values. Confirm against your supplier's datasheet.

Buying it

Flat bar 1/16–3/8 in, 1–16 in wide, from New Jersey Steel Baron; the other knife suppliers don't currently carry it. No round bar.

  • Keep the cross-section under 1/4 in (under 1/8 in for oil) or the core will not harden even without clay.
  • Brine gives the most hamon activity and the most cracked blades; fast oil is the sane choice.

Suppliers: New Jersey Steel Baron Alpha Knife Supply Jantz

Work out the bar for your knife in W2

Your knife

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$/lb
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
in
Charged once per blank. Changes how many blades a bar yields, not the stock per blade.
in
The stub at each end you can't use.
in
Not counted until "Held at" is set.
Off by default: forging a knife, you hold the tang you just drew. Count it if you leave a stub, or forge off a long bar.
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in

Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing — a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.

Forging to shape, then grinding the spine to size? Go one size up.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss

The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately now (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet — these two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.

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Extra steel a forged blank loses to grinding and clean-up beyond forge scale — bevels, straightening, plunge, tang. This one doesn't show up on a kitchen scale with the finished knife: it only changes how much bar the calculator tells you to buy, not the finished weight. Calibrate it by weighing your own raw blank against the finished knife. Defaults to 25%, from one bladesmith's own weighed knife (256 g raw to ~182 g finished) — expect this number to move as more makers share theirs.

Buy this bar

Recommended stock
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Stock per blade
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Steel weight per blade
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Finished blade weight
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Steel cost per blade
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Bar used
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Minimum bar length
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Bar lengthBladesBar costPer bladeLeft over
What this assumed
What should I charge for this knife? →

Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.

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Knives to make from W2

Questions

What steel is best for a hamon?

W2, then 1095 and 1075. All are shallow hardening; W2 has the finest grain and the most active hamon.

Free: the one-page stock size chart

Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for every standard flat bar, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.

One email with the PDF. Occasional notes on KraftyQuote after that; unsubscribe any time.