Bar Stock Calculatora free tool from KraftyQuote

Calculator › Knives › Camp knife

What size steel for a camp knife?

A camp knife sits between a hunter and a bowie: a 5–7 in blade, 3/16 in spine, full tang, built to baton and chop a little without being a hatchet. 1 1/2 × 3/16 in bar covers the whole class. Go to 1/4 in only if the blade is over 7 in or you want a true chopper.

It is a great forging project because the mass distribution matters: forge the tip thinner and leave the ricasso full so the balance sits just ahead of the guard.

Your knife

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$/lb
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
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Charged once per blank. Changes how many blades a bar yields, not the stock per blade.
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The stub at each end you can't use.
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Not counted until "Held at" is set.
Off by default: forging a knife, you hold the tang you just drew. Count it if you leave a stub, or forge off a long bar.
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Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing — a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.

Forging to shape, then grinding the spine to size? Go one size up.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss

The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately now (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet — these two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.

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Extra steel a forged blank loses to grinding and clean-up beyond forge scale — bevels, straightening, plunge, tang. This one doesn't show up on a kitchen scale with the finished knife: it only changes how much bar the calculator tells you to buy, not the finished weight. Calibrate it by weighing your own raw blank against the finished knife. Defaults to 25%, from one bladesmith's own weighed knife (256 g raw to ~182 g finished) — expect this number to move as more makers share theirs.

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Recommended stock
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Stock per blade
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Steel weight per blade
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Finished blade weight
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Steel cost per blade
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Bar used
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Minimum bar length
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Bar lengthBladesBar costPer bladeLeft over
What this assumed
What should I charge for this knife? →

Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.

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Camp knife, bushcraft knife — not the same thing

A bushcraft knife is a carving tool: feather sticks, notches, tent pegs, trap parts, food and game prep. Three and a half to five inches, carried alongside a saw or an axe that does the heavy wood. A camp knife is bigger (BLADE puts the range at five or six inches up to ten) for clearing brush, camp chores and light chopping. Conflating the two is how people end up with a knife too big to carve and too small to chop. The unpolished or squared spine that throws sparks off a ferro rod is a recent factory addition, not a defining feature: Morakniv's Garberg has one, the Woodlore and the puukko do not.

The lineage runs through the Finnish puukko, a palm-sized belt knife with a flat spine for thumb pressure and, note, a hidden tang. The workshop that became Morakniv was founded at Östnor in 1891 (a wagon factory that also made knives) and is the reason a competent Scandi-ground knife costs under twenty dollars. On the English-language side, Horace Kephart wrote the spec in 1906 in The Book of Camping and Woodcraft. His own blade was "4 inches long… 1 inch wide, 1/8 inch thick on the back, broad pointed," and a sheath knife, he said, "need not be over four or five inches long." He had no time for the bowie pattern: "too thick and clumsy to whittle with, much too thick for a good skinning knife, and too sharply pointed to cook and eat with."

The name is older than the British revival that made it a knife category. "Bushcraft" is Australian and in print since the 1800s, and Mors Kochanski carried it into the northern hemisphere. What Ray Mears did (through Woodlore, founded 1983, and his 2000s books and television) was make the pattern the default in Britain, with Alan Wood's knife as the thing everyone copies. Note that the Woodlore itself is 5 mm stock, thicker than most of what working makers recommend: in practitioner discussion 1/8 in is the most common answer, 3/32 in is defended as excellent and still batonable in North American hardwoods, and 3/16 in is where makers who like to pry a little settle. On batoning: it is a real technique for getting at dry inner wood when you are weight-limited, and not what the tool is for when a saw is in the pack. If you sell one, say plainly whether yours is warranted for it. Same for the Scandi grind: superb in wood, and, as James Morgan Ayres argued in BLADE's two-sided debate on it, prone to wedging in deep hardwood cuts and poor on meat and dense food, which is why plenty of bushcraft makers grind convex instead.

Stock for a camp knife

For a Scandi-ground bushcraft knife (4–5 in blade, 1/8 in spine) use the drop point hunter preset with a 1/8 in spine instead. This preset is the bigger, chopping camp knife.

Bushcraft, 4 1/2 in blade, Scandi1 1/4 × 1/8 in
Camp, 6 in blade1 1/2 × 3/16 in
Chopper, 8 in blade1 3/4 × 1/4 in

Widths assume blade height + 1/8 in rounded up to stock; thickness is the finished spine rounded up. Change the inputs above for your own pattern.

Steels that suit it

Questions

What is the toughest steel for a camp knife?

80CrV2 and 5160 are the usual answers: both are very tough at 57–59 HRC, cheap, and easy to heat treat in a forge. 52100 holds an edge longer but is less forgiving of a sloppy heat treat.

Free: the one-page stock size chart

Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for every standard flat bar, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.

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