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5160 for knives

5160 is leaf-spring steel — 0.6% carbon with chromium — and it is what large blades, swords and kukris are made from when toughness matters more than edge retention. It hardens in medium oil, tolerates a sloppy heat treat better than anything else on this list, and takes a beating.

Heat treat at a glance

Good forBowies, kukris, camp choppers, swords, tomahawks. Not a kitchen steel.
ForgingUp to ~2200 °F; stop at 1600 °F. Forges beautifully
Normalize1600 °F single cycle (KSN, Cashen) or 1650 / 1500 / 1350 (NJSB)
Austenitize1500–1525 °F, 15 min soak
QuenchMedium oil — Parks AAA or an 11-second oil; Parks 50 also works
Temper375–400 °F twice → 58.5–59.5 HRC; 350 °F gets just over 60; 450 °F for a sword
Working hardness56–59 HRC

Typical shop values. Confirm against your supplier's datasheet.

Buying it

Flat bar 3/16–3/8 in, wide widths readily available; also, of course, leaf springs.

  • Lower carbon means it tops out around 60–62 HRC as-quenched; 58–59 after temper is where it lives.
  • Springs from a truck are usually 5160 or close, but you will not know for sure — test a coupon before making a customer knife from one.

Suppliers: New Jersey Steel Baron Alpha Knife Supply Jantz

Work out the bar for your knife in 5160

Your knife

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$/lb
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
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Charged once per blank. Changes how many blades a bar yields, not the stock per blade.
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The stub at each end you can't use.
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Not counted until "Held at" is set.
Off by default: forging a knife, you hold the tang you just drew. Count it if you leave a stub, or forge off a long bar.
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in

Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing — a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.

Forging to shape, then grinding the spine to size? Go one size up.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss

The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately now (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet — these two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.

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Extra steel a forged blank loses to grinding and clean-up beyond forge scale — bevels, straightening, plunge, tang. This one doesn't show up on a kitchen scale with the finished knife: it only changes how much bar the calculator tells you to buy, not the finished weight. Calibrate it by weighing your own raw blank against the finished knife. Defaults to 25%, from one bladesmith's own weighed knife (256 g raw to ~182 g finished) — expect this number to move as more makers share theirs.

Buy this bar

Recommended stock
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Stock per blade
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Steel weight per blade
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Finished blade weight
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Steel cost per blade
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Bar used
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Minimum bar length
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Bar lengthBladesBar costPer bladeLeft over
What this assumed
What should I charge for this knife? →

Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.

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Knives to make from 5160

Questions

Is 5160 good for knives?

For big ones, excellent — tough, cheap, forgiving. For small slicers it is the wrong trade: edge retention is average and it cannot get as hard as 1084 or 52100.

Free: the one-page stock size chart

Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for every standard flat bar, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.

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