Bar Stock Calculatora free tool from KraftyQuote

Calculator › Knives › Karambit

What size steel for a karambit?

A karambit is a small knife, and the calculator treats it as a forging job. The preset is a 3 in blade (measured along the blank, hook included), about 0.95 in tall at the ricasso, with a 3/16 in spine and a 4 1/2 in full tang that ends in a finger ring. Forged, it comes from 1 1/4 × 3/16 in bar: you draw out the blade and tang, then forge in the hook and the ring, so the bar only has to clear the ricasso height. That is about 6 in of bar per blade (6 1/4 in with the saw cut), around 7 oz of bar for about 4 oz of finished steel, and seven blades from a 48 in bar. A 3/16 in spine is just under 5 mm, close to the half centimeter an Indonesian study gives for the back of a traditional blade.

Stock removal is a different job. Laid out flat, a karambit blank is about 2 in tall once you count the hook, which drops below the edge line, and the ring, which hangs below the handle. A blank cut to its full shape has to come from 2 in or wider flat bar or plate, not from the bar the calculator shows. The calculator's stock-removal figure is for a straight blank: about 7 3/4 in of the same 1 1/4 in bar, around 8 oz of bar for 5 oz finished, three blades from a 24 in bar. It only holds if you grind the blade straight and bend the curve in afterward, which some makers do.

Your knife

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$/lb
Advanced: cuts, tong hold & tang
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Charged once per blank. Changes how many blades a bar yields, not the stock per blade.
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Both ragged ends together, cut off and never used.
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Not counted until "Held at" is set.
Off by default: forging a knife, you hold the tang you just drew. Count it if you leave a stub, or forge off a long bar.
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Tang dimensions are estimated from the tang style until you change them. Measuring yours is worth doing: a forged blank's length depends on the tang's cross-section, not on what the tang is called.

Forging to shape, then grinding the spine to size? Go one size up.
Calibration: fill factors & grinding loss

The fraction of the blade's and tang's bounding box that is actually steel once the bevels are ground. Distal taper is factored in separately (see "Distal taper" below, under What this assumed) and isn't editable here yet. These two fill factors are the ones worth replacing with your own measurements: weigh a finished blade, then adjust until the finished weight below matches the scale.

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Extra steel a forged blank loses to grinding and clean-up beyond forge scale: bevels, straightening, plunge, tang. This one doesn't show up on a kitchen scale with the finished knife: it only changes how much bar the calculator tells you to buy, not the finished weight. Calibrate it by weighing your own raw blank against the finished knife. Defaults to 25%, from one bladesmith's own weighed knife (256 g raw to about 182 g finished, a 29% loss in all, less an assumed 5% for forge scale). Expect this number to move as more makers share theirs.

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Recommended stock
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Stock per blade
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Steel weight per blade
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Finished blade weight
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Steel cost per blade
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Bar used
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Minimum bar length
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Bar lengthBladesBar costPer bladeLeft over
What this assumed
What should I charge for this knife? →

Steel is only part of the cost. Add abrasives, handle, heat treat and your time, and see the price that actually pays you.

Forging damascus? Plan the billet: what to stack, how many restacks, and how much of each steel to buy.

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What a karambit is, and where it comes from

The karambit is a small curved hand knife from Indonesia and the Malay world, widely associated with the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra. It is spelled kerambit or karambit, and kurambiak or karambiak in Minangkabau. It is single-edged, with the edge on the inside of the curve, and the curve is tight: a 2019 study from Universitas Putra Indonesia YPTK in Padang describes it as close to 90 degrees. It is also small. The same study gives the usual size as about 5 × 8 cm (about 2 × 3 in), with a wooden handle and a blade that thins from about half a centimeter at the back down to the edge, so the 3 in preset is close to the traditional scale. The study says the hole in the handle, which takes the index finger, is there for grip.

Old examples survive in museums and the antique trade. The Tropenmuseum in Amsterdam holds a Minangkabau one from West Sumatra, recorded before 1887 and cataloged as a lawi ayam, after the curved tail feather of a rooster: iron alloy, forged, with a wooden handle, carried in a sheath or in the fold of a sarong. A dealer's 19th- to early-20th-century Malay kerambit, from the peninsula or Sumatra, weighs only 89 g (about 3 oz), with a carved wooden hilt and a wooden sheath held together by three plaited rattan bands. Modern ones often stray from the old pattern: the online Nusantara Museum's write-up on the Minangkabau kerambit says modern folding karambits, fantasy designs and commercial claims often make the blade bigger or more dramatic than the old regional knives. If you want a traditional one, size it from the old examples, not from a modern catalog.

The origin stories below are told often but aren't confirmed, so treat them as stories rather than history. The YPTK study says the karambit began as a farm tool, a small relative of the Indonesian sickles used for cutting grass, rice and alang-alang (a tall grass), before it became a weapon; the Nusantara Museum calls a farm-tool origin plausible but not fully documented. Other stories say its shape was copied from the claw of the Sumatran tiger, and that Minangkabau migrants carried it to Java and the Malay Peninsula. The Tropenmuseum's own catalog note claims it descends from the Arabian jambiya.

Stock for a karambit

Cut flat, a karambit eats wide steel: 2 in is the minimum for the preset, and one online how-to starts from O1 at least 3 1/2 in wide. The narrow-bar route is to grind the blade straight, heat it and bend it to shape, then hammer out the wrinkles the curve pushes into the edge. For grinding the inside of the curve, a maker on BladeForums recommends a 1 in wide contact wheel with the belts split to fit.

Small, 2 1/2 in blade1 × 5/32 in
Standard, 3 in blade1 1/4 × 3/16 in
Large, 4 in blade1 1/2 × 1/4 in

Widths assume blade height + 1/8 in rounded up to stock; thickness is the finished spine rounded up. Change the inputs above for your own pattern.

Steels that suit it

Questions

How much steel do I need for a karambit?

Forged from 1 1/4 × 3/16 in bar, about 6 in per blade (6 1/4 in with the saw cut): around 7 oz of bar for about 4 oz of finished steel, and seven blades from a 48 in bar. Ground straight and bent afterward, it takes about 7 3/4 in of the same bar, around 8 oz for 5 oz finished, three from a 24 in bar. If you cut the whole curved profile out flat, the blank is about 2 in tall with the hook and ring, so buy 2 in or wider stock. The calculator starts from a typical price per pound for each steel, and you can type in what your supplier charges.

What is the ring on a karambit for?

Your index finger. The Tropenmuseum's catalog note on a Minangkabau example, recorded from West Sumatra before 1887, describes holding it with the thumb on the handle and the index finger through the round hole, and an Indonesian study of the traditional knife says the hole adds grip strength. Size it to the hand: two custom karambits posted on BladeForums have rings 1 in and just under 1 in across inside.

Free: the one-page stock size chart

Bar sizes for ten common knife patterns, weight per inch for the common flat-bar sizes, and quick heat-treat numbers for the usual carbon steels. Print it, tape it to the grinder.

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